Sunday, October 28, 2012

Madrid

Day 267 - Sunday, October 16

In Madrid I stayed at a cool little hostel which boasted a view onto Plaza Mayor.
From Madrid
Unfortunately it was raining pretty fiercely Sunday evening, so I only managed to venture out far enough to get some food at the nearby San Miguel Market, a popular spot for Madrid foodies, with various food stalls serving upscale tapas.

Day 268 - Monday, October 15

Monday I was still feeling pretty awful, but I had things to see and places to go. So after sleeping in, I went out and explored a bit. My first stop was Citibank to pick up my replacement debit card. Despite some doubts, it was there waiting on me, and picking it up was painless unlike my experience in Barcelona. I wandered around a bit and took a few photos of Plaza Espana and one of the many courtyards outside the Royal Palace.
From Madrid
From Madrid
Monday night I met up with my friend Fiona, who I had met at the very start of my trip in Fiji, for more tapas. Our paths had happened to cross again in Madrid, and it was definitely nice to see a familiar face.

Day 269 - Tuesday, October 16

Tuesday, I still was not feeling well, but I decided to join a free walking tour to see a bit more of the city. I took zero pictures because the tour didn't really go anywhere picturesque and was mainly a 3-hour history lesson - not exactly the best walking tour I've experienced, but maybe there isn't much to see in Madrid? Afterwards, I was pretty worn out, so I got in the Spanish spirit and took a little siesta. After my nap, I spent the rest of the evening trying to figure out where I was going to go next, how I was going to get there, and where I was going to stay when I got there. I probably should've gone out and experienced the Madrid nightlife. But with my lingering illness, staying up until sunrise, as Spaniards like to do, seemed like a bad idea. One more photo of Plaza Mayor from ground level:
From Madrid

Thursday, October 25, 2012

Valencia

Day 264 - Friday, October 12

When I arrived in Valencia, after some mediocre paella, I opted for bed, hoping some rest might do me some good.

Day 265 - Saturday, October 13

Well, I was really hoping I had seen my last bedbug for the trip, but no such luck. By Saturday afternoon, a handful of large red welts that were unmistakable bedbug bites had appeared on my shoulder and neck, adding insult to injury. But that made it a little easier to rationalize getting out of the room and exploring a little, rather than sit around and rest on account of the flu.

So I explored a bit, and took some photos:
From Valencia
From Valencia
After enough European cities, there is a bit of a ceiling on how excited you can get to see another old important church, which is the reason the highlight of Valencia for me was definitely the City of Arts and Sciences
From Valencia
From Valencia
From Valencia
From Valencia

It being Saturday, I googled "american football valencia" and was excited to see that a few people noted that you could watch games at a place called "Portland Ale House," which is owned & operated by a guy from...yep you guessed it...Portland. It also offered quality craft beers. The combination of college football on an actual TV and a good beer had me salivating. So I strolled up there at about 6pm, when the early games would be starting, only to see that it didn't open until 7:00. That's odd, but alright, I guess I'll come back in a bit. So I came back a bit later, to see a fairly full bar, with all the TVs on some summary of some Spanish soccer team's season. So I asked the Oregonian owner about this issue, and he said they couldn't get american football games at the moment. Well that was a failure. At least Clemson had a bye week, so I wasn't relying on this place for that purpose, otherwise, there might've been some yelling. I figured at least I could get some good American food and a good hoppy ale....Not so much actually, none of the craft ales were available and the only beers they had were the same shitty beers I'd been drinking elsewhere in Europe. I did manage to get a decent burger, but definitely a big disappointment otherwise.
From Valencia


Day 266 - Sunday, October 14

Despite moving beds, I woke up with more bites. Still nothing on the order of Sydney or Slovakia, but still annoying. And of course, I was still suffering from the effects of what I still thought was the flu. But at that point, I'd had a enough of Valencia, and got an afternoon bus to Madrid.

Sunday, October 21, 2012

Barcelona

A preliminary note: I forgot to mention in the last blog that while in Montpellier, I went to put on my one pair of non-denim pants, and I couldn't find them. I really have no idea where I left them. Last I remember I washed them with some other clothes in Prague (about 2 weeks prior). Maybe I hung them up somewhere and forgot them? Another piece of clothing bites the dust. I'm really good at losing things.

Day 261 - Tuesday, October 9

My first day in Barcelona, the initial order of business was to sort out my financial situation. Apparently I had been misinformed about the inability to send a replacement debit card to Europe, so I had that sent to Madrid, where I would be at the start of the following week. Then I went to a Citibank branch in Barcelona planning to get some cash using my passport and account information. Well, I showed up about 12:30 and was told that because I was in Spain, it would take 2 hours to get any money because they'd have to contact Citi in the US and it was quite a bit of paperwork and verifications. Two hours? Really? This IS a Citibank right? You can't just pull up my account details see that I have money, verify that I am who I say I am and give me some of my money in some reasonable amount of time? ... What's that? Oh, you also close at 2pm for siesta, so you can't give me any money today at all and I need to come back tomorrow so that there's plenty of time to complete the two-hour process? Great. Can I have some Euros for my Swiss Francs? Oh, you can change those, but you charge 20% commission? Sweet. You guys are awesome!

On a less frustrating note, the weather on Tuesday was amazing. I felt like I was back in Southern California, after a cold couple of weeks in central Europe. So I walked down through the famous La Rambla and its hordes of tourists to the beach and relaxed there for a while. La Rambla:
From Barcelona
The beach:
From Barcelona
A few other photos as I explored:
From Barcelona
From Barcelona
While all of Europe seems to be on board with the idea that no one goes out until really late, I think Spain takes the cake, with many clubs not even opening up until 2am, and staying out until mid-morning seemingly even more commonplace than elsewhere in Europe. So I decided to channel my inner Spaniard and joined a pub crawl that didn't leave the hostel until well after midnight, stopping at a couple of bars before getting to the club sometime after 2am. For the umpteenth time, I confirmed that I'm not really a club person, but when in Rome Barcelona. Prior to going out, I think I had the worst beer I've had all trip. And that's really saying something. It probably ranks right up there with the worst beer I've ever had, right along side King Cobra and O.E.
From Barcelona


Day 262 - Wednesday, October 10

Wednesday I headed back to the bank, where for some unknown reason, it really did take nearly 2 hours to get cash. Then I explored the city a bit more. Some photos:
From Barcelona
I came across some kids breaking into the locked up diving complex from the 1992 Olympics that overlooks the city. When they noticed, they proceeded to yell at me for taking photos, forcing me to quickly come up with a spanish sentence easing their fears. I think I was successful; they didn't steal my camera or attack me or anything.
From Barcelona
Perhaps Barcelona's most famous landmark, La Sagrada Familia, Gaudi's crazy unfinished cathedral that they are now trying to finish.
From Barcelona
That afternoon I started to feel really crappy. I had been battling cold/allergy symptoms for a couple of weeks, but Wednesday, I was extremely fatigued with a fever as well, so I just took it easy Wednesday night.

Day 263 - Thursday, October 11

Thursday, it rained all day and whatever illness I had contracted was getting worse - fever/chills, nausea, and any movement at all was a struggle. I determined that this probably was not merely a cold/allergies. A prudent person in my shoes would've probably stayed in and rested. That of course was my plan, but after a free dinner at the hostel, mostely due to the combined influence of several healthy glasses of wine and some very persuasive (read: cute) hostelmates, I was convinced to go out. In retrospect, that was probably a mistake.

Day 264 - Friday, October 12

Friday I felt absolutely awful and it had very little to do with the mild hangover. It was crappy weather again, so it seemed like a good travel day. Given my condition, I probably should've just hung out in Barcelona and rested, but instead, I took a bus a few hours south to Valencia.

Friday, October 19, 2012

France - Montpellier

Day 258 - Saturday, October 6

I woke up Saturday in Switzerland knowing that I was checking out that day, but not yet sure where I was going. I knew I wanted to continue south, either to Lake Como or Cinque Terre in Italy or to southern France, most likely Nice. I had tried to do some research into train tickets online, but it wasn't very easy, and by the time I got back from my hike and ate some food, it was late and I was exhausted, so I just went to sleep.

Waking up not knowing where I would spend the night made me a little anxious. Below is more info than you wanted as to how I ended up deciding on Montpellier, France. Feel free to skip to the next paragraph if you don't care...First, I ruled out Lake Como, because I was already short on time for seeing Spain and France, and it looked like it would probably be similar to Interlaken, except not as pretty, with smaller mountains. So then I figured I'd go to Cinque Terre (five coastal towns on the Mediterranean coast of Italy that are linked by coastal trails and supposed to be beautiful), but then I saw on wikitravel that several of the coastal trails were closed due to mudslides and such. So I scrapped that idea. That left the south of France, so I went to the train station planning to investigate the cost to get to a few locations in southern France, thinking Nice would be the closest and cheapest destination, and allow me to get there in time to watch the Clemson football game later that night. Well it turns out the trains to Nice through Milan (the most direct route) were full, so I would have to go through Geneva and Lyon, which would involve getting to the French coast and then going east, the opposite direction of where I eventually wanted to go -- southwest, towards Spain. I looked at train times and costs to a few locations in France and ultimately decided that Montpellier seemed like a less touristy classic French city on the way to Barcelona, with a cheap hotel/hostel that had a communal computer for watching the Clemson game, which would start about an hour after I got there. Done; let's go to Montpellier.

Me: "One ticket to Montpellier, please. Oh and is it okay if I pay for it partially in cash (I wanted to get rid of the rest of my swiss franks) and the rest with a credit card"
Tkt Agent: "sure no problem"
So I handed over about $60 in Swiss Francs. Then I went to grab my debit card out of my bag. Small problem: it wasn't there. Ugh, you have to be kidding me! I frantically searched my entire bag and all my pockets while people waited and stared. It wasn't anywhere. I started to think about where it could be and decided that I almost surely lost it in Murren the day before either when I bought a train ticket with my card at the kiosk or on the train taking off or putting on my fleece with it in an open pocket. They said they could hold my ticket to Montpellier for me while I went back to my hostel to double check it wasn't there. So I ran back to the hostel, rechecked the room, rechecked my main pack with all my clothes, and I definitely didn't have it. After my passport and ipad, this was probably the one thing I could least afford to lose. It's my only ATM card and only way of getting cash, and I only have one other credit card, which I hadn't used in 8 months and might not work. Ugh, how do I keep managing to lose stuff.

Back at the hostel, I was running out of time before my train left, so I frantically called Citibank to cancel my card and find out about options for sending a new one to Europe (and got a customer service rep who was clueless, so I had to hang up on on him, but he deserved it). Then I called Chase (the bank for my one other credit card) and informed them that even though I hadn't used the card much, I was in Europe, about to buy a train ticket, and I absolutely needed that transaction to go through without a problem and to not block any upcoming transactions. They seemed to understand this much, but said there was currently no way to get a cash advance using that card, and then I ran out the door, hoping I wasn't going to miss my train.

I got back to the station with a little time to spare, was able to purchase the ticket they were holding for me, and got on my train 4 minutes prior to departure. While the swiss trains were the same standard trains I was used to from train travel elsewhere in Europe, when I got to France, I guess I ended up on the TGV high-speed train to get from Lyon to southern France, and it was a little crazy as we zoomed through the countryside at ~200 mph (~300km/h).

I got to Montpellier around 8 and found that my hotel was quite a seedy looking place in a very seedy part of town, but all was okay, because they had a computer available with a good internet connection that would allow me to watch the Clemson-GT game and some of the other college football action from Saturday, which I proceeded to spend the next 4-5 hours doing.

Day 259 - Sunday, October 7

I was only planning to spend two nights in Montpellier before moving on to Barcelona. So Sunday was the only full day I had to see the city. Like many other cities in Europe, much of the city was closed on Sunday and the streets, squares, etc., were largely empty. A few photos as I explored:
From France - Montpellier
From France - Montpellier
From France - Montpellier
From France - Montpellier
From France - Montpellier
From France - Montpellier
From France - Montpellier
From France - Montpellier


Day 260 - Monday, October 8

I hopped on a bus from Montpellier around midday to Barcelona, and for the first half of the trip from Montpellier to the border, the vast and neverending vineyards was overwhelming. Virtually every time I looked out the window it was grape vines in all directions for as far as I could see. Pretty neat.

Saturday, October 13, 2012

Switzerland

Day 254 - Tuesday, October 2

My bus from Munich took me to Bern, Switzerland's capital, arriving around 10am. Despite only 4 or 5 hours of sleep on the bus, I felt pretty good when I got to Bern - probably just "good" in comparison to how awful I had felt all day Monday. I spent a few hours checking out Bern (which, by the way, I think was plenty of time - not a ton to see there). A few photos of Bern:
From Switzerland - Bern
From Switzerland - Bern
From Switzerland - Bern
Then, I jumped on a train to Interlaken to spend a few days in the Alps detoxing, hiking, cleaning the campground off my clothes (and my body) and hopefully catching up a bit on my sleep. The view from the balcony of my hostel room when I arrived:
From Switzerland - Interlaken
That peak in the background there is Jungfrau, the mountain which lends its name to the entire region that includes Interlaken. The Swiss Alps are pretty awesome. And some of the places in the Jungfrau region are stunningly beautiful. It is definitely one of, if not the most beautiful place I've been so far. Don't worry, I took way too many pictures trying to document this...

Day 255 - Wednesday, October 3

I had read that one of the best full-day hikes in the region is along the ridge that runs from Schynige Platte to First and includes the Faulhorn summit (see map here, hike #62). Unfortunately, getting to either of the end points requires an additional 3-4 hours of hiking up or a ~$40 ride via train and/or cable car. After being warned that hiking up and walking the ridge and to the summit would be too much in a day, I decided to bite the bullet and pay for a ticket on an 8:05am train to go about 3/4 of the way up to Schynige Platte. So I was up around 6, and set out for the bus to the train station around 7, with the sun rising behind the mountains:
From Switzerland - Interlaken
From Switzerland - Interlaken
I got to the train station about 7:35 and asked for a ticket on the 8:05 train. Small problem, turns out the little footnote in German that I couldn't read indicates the 8:05 train isn't running, and the next isn't until 8:45. Not wanting to sit around doing nothing for an hour, I decided to just man up and climb the mountain and hope the posted hiking times were really conservative. So I went straight up the mountain, from Wilderswil at ~1900 ft elevation to Schynige Platte at ~6800 ft elevation. Luckily I made pretty good time and got to the top only a little after the 8:45 train did. A picture of said train as it made it's way back down:
From Switzerland - Interlaken
So at that point, I felt good about being able to get the rest of the hike in before sunset. A couple of photos from Schynige Platte:
From Switzerland - Interlaken
From Switzerland - Interlaken
From Switzerland - Interlaken
The trail continued along a ridge with the giant snow-capped mountains to the right and the lake to the left, it was pretty awesome:
From Switzerland - Interlaken
A photo looking back towards Interlaken:
From Switzerland - Interlaken
The collection of houses just to the left of Interlaken at the foot of the mountain, is Wilderswil, where I had started several hours earlier. As I continued my climb from Schynige Platte to Faulhorn, I stopped to take another picture and realized I didn't have my camera. Unfortunately, with my concern about time, I had been stopping less frequently to take pictures, and hadn't taken one in about 30 minutes. Now, as you all know, I'm pretty good about losing/forgetting things, but leaving a camera in the middle of a hike is pretty difficult to do, even for me. So I started backtracking, and after ~20 minutes and passing several people who hadn't seen it, I eventually came across a family who didn't speak english, but with some charades (a skill I've polished a good bit while traveling), I was able to communicate the issue. Success! They pulled my camera out of their bag. Whew! Glad to have my camera back, but the backtracking probably cost me 45 minutes, plus quite a bit of energy, so once again I was worried about time. Now that I had my camera, I decided more photos were in order:
From Switzerland - Interlaken
From Switzerland - Interlaken
Apparently I needed to keep an eye out for an aggressive ram:
From Switzerland - Interlaken
As I approached Faulhorn, the sun was finally high enough in the sky, that I could take some photos in the direction of the snowy peaks.
From Switzerland - Interlaken
From Switzerland - Interlaken
Finally I got to the top of Faulhorn at about ~8800 ft, ~7000 ft higher than my starting point in Wilderswil. Turns out, it gets colder as you get higher, and it was a balmy 2 degrees C atop Faulhorn. I, of course, was appropriately dressed.
From Switzerland - Interlaken
When I got to the summit, some clouds had started to move in, but I took a few pics from the top anyway:
From Switzerland - Interlaken
From Switzerland - Interlaken
From Switzerland - Interlaken
From Switzerland - Interlaken
Apparently the Swiss Air Force was doing fighter jet practice/training in the region because they were buzzing around quite close to Faulhorn all day. I felt like I was at some sort of air show, as close as they were getting. PS: Why does a country that's always neutral need an Air Force?
From Switzerland - Interlaken
I then made my way down the mountain to the town of Grindlewald, as the skies cleared up and I took way too many photos again. There's probably no reason to even click on the link to the album, because with the photos below, I think I've put nearly half the ones from the hike into the blog:
From Switzerland - Interlaken
From Switzerland - Interlaken
From Switzerland - Interlaken
Proof I was actually there:
From Switzerland - Interlaken
From Switzerland - Interlaken
Lots of cows, all with cowbells, make the Swiss Alps a perfect vacation destination for Mississippi State fans
From Switzerland - Interlaken
And a photo of the famed north face of Eiger, supposedly one of the hardest sections of mountain to climb anywhere. I don't see what all the fuss is about:
From Switzerland - Interlaken
Finally, about 10.5 hours after I started, I made it to Grindlewald:
From Switzerland - Interlaken


Day 256 - Thursday, October 4

I lucked out Wednesday night and found a very friendly Canadian named Jasmine, who let me borrow her laptop and said I could use it the following day while she hiked. On top of being worn out from the previous day's hike, Thursday ended up being a crappy weather day anyway, so it worked out to be a perfect day for me to spend culling, editing and uploading nearly 3 weeks of photos. I also used the opportunity to do my taxes. It was really quite a productive day. I had forgotten how nice it feels after you finish a significant project that's been on your plate for a while. As a tourist, I don't get many opportunities for such things. When I headed to dinner Thursday night, I was feeling pretty good about all that I had accomplished.

Day 257 - Friday, October 5

Friday the weather was beautiful, and I decided to do another full day hike, this time starting in the other glacial valley near Interlaken that's home to the towns of Lauterbrunnen and Murren (the other valley being home to Grindlewald). I decided a pre-dawn wake-up was unnecessary and didn't actually get to Murren and start the hike until nearly 11, but the moon was still out:
From Switzerland - Interlaken
Even before I had done any hiking, I was struck by the views from the town of Murren, which were pretty awesome:
From Switzerland - Interlaken
From Switzerland - Interlaken
Gradually I made my way from Murren at ~5400 ft to Schiltorn at over 9700 ft and took lots of photos along the way:
From Switzerland - Interlaken
From Switzerland - Interlaken
From Switzerland - Interlaken
From Switzerland - Interlaken
More proof I was actually there:
From Switzerland - Interlaken
From Switzerland - Interlaken
Unlike Faulhorn on Wednesday, there wasn't any plant life to speak of on the top of Schiltorn, just rocks and few remnants of snow:
From Switzerland - Interlaken
A couple photos from the top:
From Switzerland - Interlaken
From Switzerland - Interlaken
From Switzerland - Interlaken
What's that you say? You want to see more photos from my way down that look very similar to the photos above. Well you will not guess what I've got in store for you...
From Switzerland - Interlaken
As I made my way down, I came across this sign.
From Switzerland - Interlaken
I'm not sure exactly what it's trying to convey - I'm hoping it's pretty self-evident that proceeding over the edge of the cliff would be hazardous to your health. One more photo as I made my way back to Murren:
From Switzerland - Interlaken
By the time I got back down to Lauterbrunnen, the sun had pretty well set behind the mountains, but like Murren, the views from the town of Lauterbrunnen, which sits at the base of the valley, were pretty awesome:
From Switzerland - Interlaken
As I said before, the Swiss Alps may be the most beautiful place I've been in my whole trip. If you're a hiking enthusiast or just like pretty views of Mountains and such, you should definitely try to get there at some point. It was definitely one of the highlights of my trip.